The Many Colors and Fascinating History of Tourmaline

Tourmaline can be found all over the world, and in a wide spectrum of colors. From the ruby-like red hues of rubellite to the neon-blue Paraiba tourmalines that sell for tens of thousands of dollars per carat, this is one brilliantly versatile coloured gemstone.

The gemstone tourmaline can be found in many colors, and sometimes a single crystal can display more than one color. When this natural gemological phenomenon occurs, these stones are referred to as bi-colour, tri-color or parti-color tourmalines, depending on how many colors are present. Such tourmalines are specially cut to make the most of this natural feature.

Where are tourmalines mined?

Tourmaline can be found in many countries across the world, but is mined primarily in Brazil and in African countries including Tanzania, Nigeria, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Malawi and Namibia. Tourmalines are also mined in Asia, most notably in Pakistan, Afghanistan, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and India.

Top global exporters of tourmaline include:

• Brazil
• Nigeria
• Afghanistan
• Tanzania
• Mozambique

Which colors are tourmalines discovered in?

Tourmaline exists in a dizzying array of hues, and some special shades have distinct names. Indicolite tourmalines are dark violetish blue, blue, or greenish blue. Verdelites are tourmalines that are colored green without the presence of chromium or vanadium. Rubellites are tourmalines that present a color that falls between reasonably saturated dark pink to dark red.

Almost every color of tourmaline can be found in Brazil, especially in the Brazilian states of Minas Gerais and Bahia on the eastern coast of the country. The famous Paraiba tourmaline, named after the state in Brazil in which it was first discovered in the late 1980s, comes in brilliant shades of blue and green created by the presence of copper.

Within the industry there is some debate as to whether the term ‘Paraiba’ should only be used to describe neon-blue tourmalines from that specific region in Brazil, or whether it can be used to describe any copper-bearing tourmaline that displays that color, regardless of where it was mined (deposits of very similar colors of tourmaline to the original Paraiba stones were found in Mozambique in 2001).  

In 2006, the International Gemstone Industry Laboratory Conference accepted Paraiba tourmaline as a variety name, meaning it would recognise copper-bearing tourmaline mined outside of Brazil’s Paraiba as Paraiba tourmalines. Despite this, some in the industry prefer to make a distinction between the two, particularly as the original Paraiba tourmalines carry a major price premium, as the stones are incredibly rare and the Brazilian mines are nearly exhausted. For those who wish to separate the two, terms such as ‘paraiba-like’ or ‘cuprian’ (meaning copper bearing) are common ways to describe bright blue tourmaline from outside Brazil.

While Paraiba tourmalines are certainly one of the most expensive varieties, there are other sought-after varieties, including watermelon tourmalines. This name refers to tourmalines that transition from verdilite to rubellite, displaying both pink and green hues - hence the connection to the similarly colored fruit. Bi-colored watermelon tourmalines are very popular in the jewelry world.

Treatments used to enhance the color of tourmaline

Tourmaline often has a very recognizable pattern of inclusions consisting of fine liquid- or gas-filled cavities that can resemble tangled threads. As with many other gemstones that have similar surface-reaching fractures, tourmaline inclusions can be filled using oils or resins. This treatment will improve the appearance of the gems by making any fractures less visible. Using resin rather than oil gives the additional benefit of improving the tourmaline’s durability.

Tourmaline can be heat treated to lighten dark tones, or irradiated to intensify the color. The latter is often used to achieve the rich hues of rubellite, or a sought-after red tourmaline that is often used as an alternative to ruby. Copper-bearing tourmalines, which have a signature neon-blue hue, can sometimes start out as violet, pink or gray stones. A heat treatment is used to create the electric blue and greenish blue colors associated with Paraiba tourmaline.

Tourmalines are sought-after gems in jewelry design as they can deliver a blast of color for a lower price than precious rubies, emeralds or sapphires. 

Tourmaline: the best cuts and notes on durability

Tourmalines are typically cut as faceted gemstones, although they can also be found in cabochons and slices. There is also some demand for uncut and unpolished tourmalines, which are set as intact crystal columns in contemporary jewelry.

As a general rule, tourmaline is a fairly durable gemstone, with a hardness of 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, but some tourmalines can have multiple fracture-like inclusions that can weaken the stone and make it more susceptible to knocks. It can also be brittle, so while tourmaline is often found in fine jewelry as it lends itself easily to being set in silver, gold and platinum, jewelers need to take care when setting the stones into designs. 

While tourmaline is not the most robust gemstone, it is suitable for engagement rings. However, it might be better served set in pieces of jewelry that will not come in constant contact from daily wear and so run the risk of abrasion through contact.

A quick guide to tourmaline

The surprising - and sometimes confusing - history of tourmalines

Because of its wide variety of colors, tourmaline has often been confused with other gemstones throughout history.

In the 1500s, for example, a Spanish conquistador found green tourmaline in Brazil, which he mistook for emerald, and took back to Spain as a prized find. It was not until the 1800s that his error was discovered, and the stone was confirmed to be a tourmaline. This was one of the earliest recorded findings of green tourmaline in Brazil.

The US is also a source of tourmaline, with the gemstone discovered in Maine in 1820 and later in California in 1892. It became a popular gem of choice with American shoppers during this century thanks to the marketing efforts of Tiffany & Co, and its head gemologist George Kunz, as well as finding a market in China. Pink and red tourmaline from San Diego was particularly popular with the Chinese as it was known to be favored by the Empress Dowager Cixi, who effectively controlled the Chinese government in the late Qing dynasty from 1861 until her death in 1908. Four years later, the Qing dynasty would be overthrown and the Republic of China would rise in its place. With the collapse of China came the end of the San Diego tourmaline trade, as it had relied so heavily on Chinese exports. Tourmaline mines still remain in California but only sporadically produce gem-quality stones. 

Discoveries of tourmaline in Brazil in the 1980s and 1990s sparked a fresh wave of interest in the gemstone, with much of the hype led by the famous neon-blue copper-bearing tourmalines of the Paraiba mines. Perhaps the most famous of the Paraiba tourmalines is the 191.87 carat Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraíba, which is reported to be valued at $125 million.

Tourmalines: legends and folklore

As with all gemstones, there is much folklore surrounding tourmalines. One intriguing story is an Ancient Egyptian legend that claims the reason tourmalines are found in such a wide variety of colors is because the stones traveled along a rainbow, picking up the different colors as it went. Another legend claims magicians living in the Andes mountains in South America used tourmaline to create magical staffs in order to access the world’s ancient knowledge.

Many people believe in the healing power of gemstones, and for those who do, tourmaline is thought to have the ability to cure depression, strengthen the body and spirit, improve relationships, and increase intuition and creativity. This last attribute has led actors, writers and artists to carry tourmaline around as a talisman. Tourmaline is also said to help improve self-awareness, self-confidence, psychic energies, communication, and the ability to relax, all while counteracting fear, grief and negative energies.

How is tourmaline being used in contemporary jewelry?

There are two main reasons that tourmaline is a popular choice for jewelry. Firstly, its incredible range of colors open up a world of design possibilities. Secondly, it is relatively affordable compared to other coloured gemstones.  

Additionally, bi-colored and multi-colored tourmaline has become increasingly popular in the 21st century and are prized for their unique color combinations, which can be used to create beautiful pieces of jewelry that celebrate the gemmological quirk that lead to their creation.

Tourmalines have become a popular alternative to the traditional diamond engagement rings. The gemstone’s colors and affordability make it an attractive choice for couples seeking something different.

For those who believe in the healing power of gemstones, tourmaline is thought to improve self-confidence and banish negative energies.